For help, advice and discussion about stuff not related to aviation. Play nice: no religion, no politics and no axe grinding please.
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By kanga
#1772331
Colonel Panic wrote:..Mrs Me wanted a "ballet bar" to practise her moves on,..


a barre presumably to hold onto, not a bar to drink at, while practising ? :)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barre_(ballet)

[looks good :thumright: no projects here which could justify such a purchase, unfortunately :wink: ]
User avatar
By JonathanB
FLYER Club Member  FLYER Club Member
#1772367
I didn’t think you need a project to justify this kind of purchase... it’s just cool!
By Colonel Panic
#1772397
@PeteSpencer Is this what you want? Diameter of bit that would slide in to pipe = 68mm (but perhaps 65mm would be on the safe side?), with an 8mm slot and 10mm hole. 5mm lip all of the way around

Could come in black, white or a snazzy shade of orange ...

EDITED TO ADD: Just re-read the brief; making it domed or conical would be a PITA TBH. But black is doable ...

Image
By cockney steve
FLYER Club Member  FLYER Club Member
#1772428
^^^^^ make it from flexible plastic, tongue on one side of the split,groove on the other, so the thing mates into a domed disc......while you're at it, make the centre-hole into a raised spigot (again, with a t&g joint) .... slip the cable in, smear of Sikaflex or silicone in the grooves, snap it together, blob of same sealant down the cable-spigot and again on the pipe-spigot......rigid and watertight,-job's a good-un. :D

An alternative might be an automotive drive-shaft gaiter. These are available with a split from big-end (for CV joint) to small (drive-shaft) end......edges are superglued together, saves splitting the hub/CV joint. Basically forms a convoluted flexible cone, but I think the smaller hole may still be too big.
User avatar
By PeteSpencer
FLYER Club Member  FLYER Club Member
#1772482
Colonel Panic wrote:@PeteSpencer Is this what you want? Diameter of bit that would slide in to pipe = 68mm (but perhaps 65mm would be on the safe side?), with an 8mm slot and 10mm hole. 5mm lip all of the way around

Could come in black, white or a snazzy shade of orange ...

EDITED TO ADD: Just re-read the brief; making it domed or conical would be a PITA TBH. But black is doable ...

Image


That looks good colonel: Dome not a problem but it must be rain proof:
Its standard 68 mm external dia drainpipe but as everything is wired up ready to be sealed and back filled the cap needs to be flexible with perhaps an overlap instead of a slot so I can twist it enough to get the cable in to the 10mm centre hole.
Ive got some gorilla sealant for the underground pipes/edges/cable entry..

It was just an idea as the 3D printer thread came up during the project: Somebody's already posted a commercial stop for a tenner: Even that would have to be split and the jubilee clip undone.

Cheers

Peter
Last edited by PeteSpencer on Tue May 26, 2020 8:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By stevelup
FLYER Club Member  FLYER Club Member
#1772486
Here it is in OpenSCAD - fully parametric - you can edit the inner, outer, hole size and slot size by twiddling the numbers at the top.
Image
Image

Code: Select all$fn=60;
botdepth=25;
botdia=65;
topdia=75;
holedia=10;
slotwidth=8;



module hemisphere(diameter) {

    intersection() {
        sphere (d = diameter);
        translate ([-(diameter/2), -(diameter/2), 0]) { cube (diameter, diameter, diameter); }
    }
}

module pete_thing() {
   
    union() {
        hemisphere(topdia);
        translate ([0,0,-botdepth]) { cylinder ( d = botdia, h =botdepth); }
    }

}

module cutouts() {
   
    union() {
        translate([0,0,-botdepth]) { cylinder (d = holedia, h=botdepth + topdia);}
        translate([0,-slotwidth/2,-botdepth]) { cube ([topdia/2,slotwidth,botdepth+topdia]);}
       
    }
}


difference () {
    pete_thing();
    cutouts();
}
Last edited by stevelup on Tue May 26, 2020 8:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By stevelup
FLYER Club Member  FLYER Club Member
#1772489
What about two halves? Smear both halves with silicone, place over the cable and shove in the orifice?

Doesn't need to be flexible then (which is a problem), and no holes to fill...

Image
Image
Colonel Panic liked this
User avatar
By eltonioni
#1772496
Tennis ball, Stanley knife, duck tape. :whistle:
Rob P liked this
User avatar
By PeteSpencer
FLYER Club Member  FLYER Club Member
#1772497
stevelup wrote:What about two halves? Smear both halves with silicone, place over the cable and shove in the orifice?

Doesn't need to be flexible then (which is a problem), and no holes to fill...

Image
Image


Now why didn't I think if that? (Well I know why)

That is the blindingly obvious answer!

Only problem is there isn't much clearance from the top of the open drainpipe to the bottom of the electrical cabinet above.Maximum 20 mm in position.

At present the pipe could be pulled out from under the cabinet to push the 'plug in, then swung back into place, pipe secured to wall and backfilled ground hole but distance from rim of pipe(internal diameter 65 mm)/lip of 'plug' to top of 'dome' is 20mm maximum.
The length of that portion of the 'plug' within in the tube is not a problem while pipe can be swung out.

Pipe's black so black would be cool tho I've still got some black Hammerite.

Gorilla filler would stick the halves, seal the edges and the10mm flex hole.
Job done!

No rush......... :lol:
Except I've got several projects waiting for gorilla sealant so I don't have to clean out the spout multiple times, a job I hate as I can never get the ruddy silicon off my hands.

Peter
Last edited by PeteSpencer on Tue May 26, 2020 8:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By PeteSpencer
FLYER Club Member  FLYER Club Member
#1772570
Hate to seem pushy, but would any kind forumite be able to take this on please?
Stevelup's 'two halves' design is the way to go.

The only three critical dimensions are stem dia 65mm: it plugs into a 65mm ID tube, the height of the 'dome' should be 20mm max and hole for flex 10 mm dia.

Black would be cool.

No worries if not possible but I need to wrap this project up and if not viable I will use fallback plan 'b' to cap the tube.

Happy to pay material costs, postage and for your time.
TIA

Peter :thumleft:
User avatar
By stevelup
FLYER Club Member  FLYER Club Member
#1772573
My dome was spherical. No problem squishing it... Files are in the dropbox link at the bottom.

My printer is out of service at the moment - you'll need another volunteer to print!

Image
Image

Code: Select all$fn=64;
botdepth=25;
botdia=65;
topdia=75;
holedia=10;
slotwidth=8;
domeheight=20;



module hemisphere(diameter) {

    intersection() {
        resize (newsize=[diameter,diameter,domeheight*2]) sphere (d = diameter);
        translate ([-(diameter/2), -(diameter/2), 0]) { cube (diameter, diameter, diameter); }
    }
}

module pete_thing() {
   
    union() {
        hemisphere(topdia);
        translate ([0,0,-botdepth]) { cylinder ( d = botdia, h =botdepth); }
    }

}

module cutouts() {
   
    union() {
        translate([0,0,-botdepth]) { cylinder (d = holedia, h=botdepth + topdia);}
        translate([0,-slotwidth/2,-botdepth]) { cube ([topdia/2,slotwidth,botdepth+topdia]);}
       
    }
}

module hemihemi() {
   
    union() {
        translate([0,0,-botdepth]) { cylinder (d = holedia, h=botdepth + topdia);}
        translate([0,-topdia/2,-botdepth]) { cube ([topdia/2,topdia,botdepth+topdia]);}
       
    }
}


difference () {
    pete_thing();
    hemihemi();
}


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/38uk34kgjkdq ... Ktzra?dl=0
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