[PeteSpencer]

We really need our 36Volt electric golf buggy to shift one ton of fully fuelled Arrow on wet grass,
Yesterday a member had a problem with a loose battery terminal which caused arcing and virtually destroyed the lead negative terminal post of one of the batteries.
The buggy is powered by 6 no. 6Volt 235 A/H Deep cycle lead acid batteries (36 volts total) in series and the affected one is in the middle of the series string. I was able to stabilise the terminal to stop movement/further arcing with a bodge of a coupla plasterboard screws to allow me to drive the buggy back into the hanger but the affected terminal post looks like a chewed apple core and I doubt will take full current of a loaded motor.
So I have a coupla questions please for the cognoscenti on here:
1)Can battery posts be repaired? I guess not.
2) I can't find the exact make online but I can find same capacity, so would putting a new battery in with five old ones cause a problem? New prices are £160-180 so we can't afford to replace the lot (£1k) particularly as the old batteries still work well, but there is a feeling that a new battery might cause bigger problems.I did think about isolating the dud battery and running it off five (30volts) but I don't think it would have the power.

At present I'm getting quotes from a local golf buggy repair shop for a new battery plus safety check (he won't service it as he doesn't do that make an its ancient).

I'd greatly appreciate your views: At the present I guess we're looking at replacing the battery ourselves and giving the buggy a grease up and clean but I don't want to wreck the other batteries.

BR and thanks.

Peter

[Trent772]

Without seeing it, the suggestion would be to see how much meat there is on the remains of the terminal and drill down into it, a brass or stainless rod of suitable dimension would self tap into the lead and terminate as usual.
If you pm me and swap emails, you can send a snap and we will see if Northern Monkeys Inc could fettle something in our shop.

[stevelup]

If you do need to buy another one, speak to these people:-

https://www.thebatteryshop.co.uk

I've bought numerous batteries over the years from them for various applications. They are knowledgeable and also very price competitive.

[kanga]

Not sure where you are, but these people in Cheltenham are very knowledgeable in all sorts of battery technologies (cars, boats, aircraft, ..), as evidenced by their guy who came to give a talk to our Strut not that long ago

http://www.grovesbatteries.co.uk/

I have also heard well of the helpfulness of their service

[Trent772]

If you do replace one battery, it may pay to take the others out and individually put them on an Optimate or similar, they do a 6/12v model. That way all elements of the pack will be as balanced as possible before re assembly.

[cockney steve]

done the odd one or 2!.....when they're made, plates have straps soldered (fused) to them. the tail is poked through a hole/recess in the casing-top...then a mould is placed over it and molten lead poured in.

Get hold of a BIG soldering-iron , a calor-torch (bullfinch) propane, flux a stainless-wire brush (poundshop, pack of 2 brass, 2 stainless! ) strip of aluminium (scissors, drink-can )

Wrap strip around the correct terminal on another battery ..note, it's tapered to the top, it's a different size to the other terminal. fold the overlap to make a secure joint. A few mill over height and diameter is OK, the bottom edge should be straight and true.

Clean the damaged terminal, wire- brush, scriber, scraper, sandpaper, whatever...get it shiny, clean and bright.

cover it well with a thin film of flux. meanwhile heat the soldering -iron (It's copper !) flame will go turquoise -blue when it's hot enough...too hot, you'll burn the "tinning" of solder Wire-brush, dip in flux, rub solder over tip rub on a bit of flux coated wood/cardboard to get a good even coating....this ensures the heat will travel into the work!
Meanwhile , melt some scrap lead (yes, you can get posts off dead batteries) use an old bean-tin or a shallower, smaller one.

lead melted? iron hot? mould stood on top of the battery...it fits over the stump, doesn't it?.....assistant will now be handy as well as a couple of pairs of pliers / vise -grips (cheaper inferior brands available

Dunk the hot iron into flux, just the tinned area...should be clean and bright......place on post -stump, initially flat, then , if you see a surface- melt, vertical....if the pointy bit starts melting a depression, whip the iron away, drop the mould over and immediately pour in the molten lead......having pre- heated the stump, the molten lead should melt the surface and the whole lot becomes homogeneous. let it solidify..slip off the mould (solder/lead will not bond to aluminium without special flux) Quick wire- brush, go have a beer You just saved over £100 for an hour's work and learned how to cast lead !

If you look at a Ford battery, with tag- type terminals the circular puddle in the middle, where the terminal was bonded to the strap, is quite clearly visible. (same method converts them to a round post!)

[PeteSpencer]

Without seeing it, the suggestion would be to see how much meat there is on the remains of the terminal and drill down into it, a brass or stainless rod of suitable dimension would self tap into the lead and terminate as usual.
If you pm me and swap emails, you can send a snap and we will see if Northern Monkeys Inc could fettle something in our shop.

Thanks T7

I'll take a pic next time I'm at the strip.
Slightly concerned though as I have done a pretty secure bodge with self tapping plasterboard fixtures which allows us to move the buggy (unloaded) to get tractor/mowers out. If the stump snaps off the buggy will effectively be immobilised due to no terminal attachment

At the moment the group is thinking self fitted new battery and take a chance on the others not being affected.

Regards

Peter

[Flyin'Dutch']

Why not use the tractor to move the aeroplane?

[PeteSpencer]

Why not use the tractor to move the aeroplane?

Good suggestion:

but getting the ancient fergie into life is a bit of a faff and would involve even more expense fitting tow ball etc.

Movements are a bit coarse and lack the precision/smooth take-up of the buggy which is ideal for purpose.

Also clutch can be a bit juddery and sprung towbar may not absorb the shock and risk noseleg damage

Also to be perfectly frank I wouldn't trust some members with the massive (relatively) torque/power of the tractor so close to the aeroplane:

We may have a solution in that our newest member who is a licensed aircraft engineer (with a PhD) thinks he may be able to re-build the terminal post.

Peter

[cockney steve]

It sounds like, in your own mind, you've already written- off the battery - therefore, you've absolutely nothing to lose by attempting a rebuild of the post.
The plasterboard -screws will rapidly corrode and make a cleaning job extremely tedious....this is the most important step.
I got my big iron from a charity -shop for about a pound!The copper -bit would scrap for more!,,,once you start the melt of the stump, you can feed in a bit of solder....do NOT use the lead-free plumbing stuff....in fact, it's possible to rebuild completely with solder, but very tedious, even with 2 or 3 irons, as the mass will increasingly absorb more heat as you melt and add......there's also the danger you'll melt the plastic case -lid or the strap from the cell-plates....That's why I prefer to pre-heat the stump. and pour molten lead
An oxy torch with a small tip can be used , but it's vital that the cell/venting is isolated and ventilated.....an exploding battery showers acid and plastic everywhere. (got the remains of that teeshirt) ( Lead-Acid batteries produce Hydrogen and Oxygen which, with a naked flame around, is not a good place to be .
If I were closer, I'd do it for you.
, Hope your member is good on the tools as well as an academic...he'll walk it and the other members will owe him a free hour in the air

[PeteSpencer]

..
, Hope your member is good on the tools as well as an academic...he'll walk it and the other members will owe him a free hour in the air

I think he is: After many years with KLM he is consulting on his own and is rushed off his feet!
Finding the time will be the biggest problem.

We have pulled away from writing off the battery: we were not aware that there was even a remote chance of rebuilding the post.

I'll keep you posted (no pun intended).

(The plasterboard plug bodge was a quick (and rather brilliant though I say it myself) fix to get power to get it back in the hangar- the buggy weighs a lot and is a bugger to push sans power.)

Peter

[cockney steve]

Next time, use a single jump-lead to connect cable to stump!

[carlmeek]

I use a 36v golf buggy to tow my helicopter out of the hangar. It’s great but it’s 15 years old and has been on its last legs for 3 years.

I’ve replaced several batteries individually. I leave it on charge overnight and then test the Voltage of the individual batteries. If below 6v replace. Simple. No faff.

[cockney steve]

just been looking on the Bay, at lawn-tractors, for a friend who has a "bend in the middle" husqvarna one. several, without a cutting-deck, well under £200.....some have "hydrostatic" transmission...apparently works like an automatic. may be worthy of consideration.

[carlmeek]

I’ve got one for my lawn, they are bloody brilliant.

However never underestimate the torque of electric. My steel helipad can be towed with astonishing ease by the buggy but a 400cc quad struggled.